The line forming at the entrance of one of Nottinghamshire’s beloved bakeries doesn’t bother me at all. It offers a moment to absorb the appealing display laid out before me. Like a young child in a confectionery store, I find myself slightly overwhelmed by the selection at Coosh, and my younger self wants to grab one of each item. However, I know I’ll need to make some choices. Every creation in the glass cases tempts me, from the savoury bacon, tomato and cheese Genovese or Stilton quiche to the sweet chocolate brownies, mixed berry shortbread choux buns and rhubarb and raspberry Bakewells. I allow the gentleman behind me to proceed with his order as I’m still deliberating over my purchases at the establishment on Breck Hill Road in Mapperley, which welcomed its first customers in 2023 after beginning operations in a residential kitchen. Independent bakeries throughout Nottinghamshire have grown tremendously in favour recently, and I genuinely believe that’s excellent.

Ultimately, I select several baked goods: some familiar classics, one with an inventive spin, and something entirely new to me. While being served, I observe the various breads produced in this microbakery where employees work busily behind the counter. The generous portions of focaccia look impressive. How does one decide between roast onion and thyme or rosemary and sea salt? There are bagels available in plain, poppy seed, sea salt, sesame, or everything varieties, flavoured with garlic, onion, poppy seeds, and sesame seeds. Anyone who has attempted making bagels, which I have, knows it’s not a simple or fast process requiring boiling and baking, so I’m more than content to leave that to the experts. Tiger bread, farmhouse, sourdough and boules stock the shelves, but what particularly catches my attention are the muffins, not the sweet American style but the English version typically served at brunch with eggs Benedict, Florentine and Royale accompanied by hollandaise sauce. They’re nearly double the size of typical supermarket muffins.

Returning home with my brown paper bags, I’m eager to begin tasting. First, a bialy crafted from bagel dough that resembles a mini pizza (£4.80). This Polish-Jewish pastry is something I’ve never experienced before and I wasn’t certain whether to consume it warm or cold. I sampled it both ways, and heating it certainly improved the texture of the dough. Light and fluffy internally, it has a pleasant chew and a satisfying crispy crust. Finished with Cajun corn, chorizo, slices of fresh chilli and crunchy pickles, it’s an excellent way to begin my Coosh feast with bold flavours throughout. Consuming the entire bialy would be quite filling and leave no space for my other purchases, so I summon all my self-control to stop after one quarter.

Next, a scone. Not a plain or fruit variety, but one with cheese and chilli. Once again, warming it proves successful, melting the cheese within the soft, crumbed interior. Spread with butter, it’s pure comfort, as the subtle heat from the chilli leaves my mouth with a pleasant warmth. This is my savoury standout, and at £3.20, it represents good value particularly considering its size. That humble pastry, the sausage roll, has received an upgrade. It’s substantial, filled with an enormous amount of pork filling. I’m not mistaken when I say I’d have preferred less meat and somewhat more flaky pastry. At £5, it’s my priciest acquisition but it’s nearly a complete meal rather than merely a snack.

Finally, the finest element from school lunches… cornflake tart. Coosh’s version is outstanding and far better than the variety typically served with pink custard. The cornflakes consist of crispy pieces and sticky sections with abundant gooey golden syrup. Beneath sits a thick layer of flavourful raspberry jam, more generous than typical commercial versions, which tend to use minimal jam. Holding everything together is a delightful buttery shortcrust base. It delivers everything one wants from a tart. At £3.50, it’s a fair price for such indulgence. I struggle to recall when I’ve enjoyed a superior cornflake tart—is travelling 22 miles reasonable for another one?